Tartiflette Recipe

tartiflette on plateTartiflette is a great potato and melted cheese dish. It’s one of those you love to eat when out skiing or hiking in the mountains, getting cold, burning a lot of energy all day and then sitting around the table with a group of friends.

The ingredients are firm potatoes, Reblochon cheese, bacon, shallots, garlic and crème fraîche. I would describe how to make tartiflette, but I couldn’t do it any better than “le meilleur du chef” who have done a step-by-step photo series on how to prepare tartiflette. It’s very easy and can be done in about an hour.

Some hints and comments:

tartiflette in emile henry dishI highly recommend using an Emile Henry dish – they are beautiful ceramic dishes and the tartiflette will not stick. Believe me, you will be surprised how easy you can take the potato and cheese mix out of the dish and how little time it will take to clean.

Most of the ingredients are easy to find. Make sure you get firm potatoes. And go to a good cheese store for the Reblochon. Both the Tromp Winkel on Beethovenstraat and the Kaashut on Postjesweg carry Reblochon and will be able to sell you a ripe one – make sure you mention it. They also sell special crème fraîche that is much heavier and creamier than the regular stuff and will make your Tartiflette even yummier.

Recipe for Risotto with Corn, Asparagus, Tomatoes, Parmesan and Mozzarella

closeup risotto with cornRisotto is great – it’s not an easy dish but after having tried for a few times you will get the hang of it. It’s one of those fundamental dishes that you can do over and over again, combining the basic risotto with many ingredients. We started with the classic – mushroom risotto – and once we had that down, began experimenting successfully. So when fresh corn started showing up in the veggie and organic stores, we decided to make corn risotto – with asparagus, tomatoes, Parmesan and mozzarella.

Preparing the dish will probably take you about an hour. Not exactly a quick dish, but trust me, you will love it! The ingredients complement each other really well: bitter asparagus and sweet corn; acidic tomato sauce and creamy Parmesan and mozzarella. And the al dente risotto rice ties it together perfectly and gives the dish great texture! Read on how to make it!

You will need the following ingredients:
• 2 cups of risotto rice
• Shallots and garlic
• 2 fresh cobs of corn
• Vegetable stock
• Tomato puree (“passata”)
• Tomato triple concentrate
• Basil
• Parmesan
• Buffalo mozzarella
• Small, green asparagus

Feduzzi – the “Mercato Italiano” on Scheldestraat that I go to and write about a lot – is a great place to get most of the ingredients such as the risotto rice, cheese and tomato sauce. You can find the rest at your local veggie store or the Turkish store on the corner.

I prepare the risotto in three steps. First start the risotto rice. Then prepare the vegetables while the risotto is boiling. And finally mix it all up.

1. First bring the chicken stock to boil. You will need between one and one and a half liters. The stock needs to be hot when you add it to the fried risotto rice.

Now start the risotto by frying the risotto rice in a pan. I use half butter and half olive oil. Add the risotto rice when the oil is moderately hot and leave the flame on high until rice and oil start bubbling.

risotto rice, shallots and garlic fryingStir in the garlic and shallots – finely chopped – and when the whole thing starts bubbling again, reduce the heat and cover with a lid. Keep simmering for about five minutes or until the rice grains turn translucent – stir occasionally.

Make sure you fry the rice long enough – when I started making risotto I would fry the rice quite briefly and often have problems. Frying for as long as five minutes seemed counter-intuitive until I tried it. It works!

adding stock to risottoWhen the rice is translucent, turn the flame up to high again. You want the butter and oil to reach maximum temperature when you start adding the stock. Now start adding the stock – ladle by ladle, keeping the temperature as high as possible. After you have added about three ladles individually, you can start adding two or three at a time to give you time to prepare the other ingredients on the side.

2. It’s time to prepare the other ingredients while the risotto is boiling. Don’t forget to keep adding chicken stock whenever the liquid level in the pan is low.

cutting corn grains off cobCut the asparagus into bite sized pieces and fry them in a pan for 5 to 10 minutes. You need to fry them long enough for them to be tender and lose their bitterness – but not too long to let them keep their bite. Take them off the fire and set them aside.

Then boil the cobs of corn by putting them into boiling water and letting them boil at high heat for about 3 to 4 minutes. Rinse with cold water and cut the grains off with a sharp knife.

3. The risotto should be almost done. Taste frequently when adding stock to make sure you do not overcook the risotto rice – risotto should be served al dente. We will now add the remaining ingredients – first the tomato sauce, then the corn and asparagus and finally the Parmesan and mozzarella. We will stir them in at low heat.

tomato puree and concentrateThe first ingredients you will add are the tomato puree and concentrate. They contain liquid, so you will want to add them just before the risotto rice is ready.

In this case, I am using tomato puree and concentrate instead of fresh tomatoes. It’s sad but true – the quality of tomatoes in Amsterdam is incredibly low. I have tried many stores – from the veggie specialist to the organic market and on to the Turkish store on the corner – but I never get anything that has enough flavor or even remotely reminds me of the aromatic tomatoes you can pick up everywhere in Italy or Spain. As a nice side effect, using tomato puree and concentrate saves the time usually needed for tomato sauce.

Next stir in the corn and the asparagus. We are almost done – the last ingredients to add are the Parmesan and the mozzarella that will give our risotto a lovely consistency and pungent, cheesy flavor.

Grated Parmesan and buffalo mozzarellaGet good Parmesan – this is one of the ingredients that will make a break this (and many other) dish. Go out of your way to get the best quality. Again, I highly recommend Feduzzi. And get buffalo mozzarella – it has a distinctly different and much stronger flavor than regular mozzarella and will give this dish and extra pungent note.

Grate the Parmesan and cut the buffalo mozzarella into small chunks. Stir into the risotto.

serve corn risottoWarm up deep dishes and serve the risotto with corn, tomato, asparagus, Parmesan and mozzarella as starter or main course.

Feduzzi and Tromp Semi-Finalists in KDWN Food Store Competition

kdwn best food logoItalian traiteur Feduzzi on Scheldestraat and cheese specialty store Tromp on Beethovenstraat are two of my favorite food stores in Amsterdam. Both have high-quality products, a large selection and excellent service. These guys basically love their food.

Now they are getting recognition: Both Feduzzi and Tromp are semi-finalists in the KDWN food store competition. Feduzzi in the “food specialty store” category and Tromp for the title of best “cheese specialty store”.

kdwn best cheese logoThe KDWN – Stichting Kaas- en Delicatessenwinkels Nederland or Foundation Cheese- and Delicatessenstores The Netherlands – is an industry organization that represents food entrepreneurs in the Netherlands. They organize the yearly competition for best stores as well as the specialty food trade fair “Vakbeurs Foodspecialiteiten”.

Prize or not – Feduzzi and Tromp are worth a trip!

Torus Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh

Last night we had a great bottle of Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh for the second time! Pacherenc is a dry, white wine with a very characteristic herby flavor, not unlike Viognier.

label chateau viella pacherencWe had Pacherenc for the first time at De Witte Uyl a few months ago. That night we had decided to order a bottle of Viognier which they had run out of. As always, sommelier Annemieke came up with an alternative suggestion that was spot on – a bottle of Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh. It was a 2006 Château de Viella and we loved it.

Pacherenc is not very popular yet in Amsterdam so we had pretty much forgotten about it – until last night when we were looking for a good and somewhat different white wine to bring along to a dinner party. At – of all places – Gall & Gall that was pretty much the only place left open…

label torus pacherencThe Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh we got last night was a 2006 Torus, made by Alain Brumont. Everybody loved it! It’s a light white wine with surprising depth and flavor. The nose is pleasant and subtle. The first taste is light and fruity which later develops into a surprisingly spicy and floral aroma.

Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh is an AOC region in the Madiran, in the very south-west of France, below the Armagnac. The Manseng grape gives the Pacherenc wines their characteristic, spicy flavors. Like Viognier, Manseng is quickly becoming popular again, its revival being led by Californian and Australian winemakers.

Rediscovering an old favorite and – as he states himself – “thumbing a nose at New World wine” Alain Brumont and other south-west winemakers will surely produce some great Manseng and Viognier wines in the near future.

Restaurant Week Amsterdam 2008 – Tante Agaath and Heerlijk

Last week was the summer edition of Restaurant Week in Amsterdam. During restaurant week you can sample a three course dinner for EUR 25,= at any of the more than 500 participating restaurants. If you are quick enough, that is, as their server traditionally grinds to a halt due to the enormous traffic by people trying to reserve a table.

I subscribe to Dining City Amsterdam, which means an opportunity to reserve a table for restaurant week a few days in advance. The idea behind restaurant week is to try new restaurants and we managed to score tables at Tante Agaath and Heerlijk – both in the Jordaan and both new to us.

Both Tante Agaath and Heerlijk are examples of how restaurants should *not* do restaurant week. Menus were boring with a limited number of rather simple choices. I guess it’s partially understandable as restaurants need to deal with larger than usual number of guests and a limited budget. But to me the idea was to attract new guests in the future by luring them in for the first time during restaurant week. And then having them return because they liked it.

tante agaath outsideTante Agaath was clearly the better of the two. Service was prompt and friendly – much unlike what was said in some reviews that criticized the service of Agaath. The starters we ordered were a trio of fish with salmon, shrimp and scallops; and paté. The scallops were the best part. The paté was ok although unfortunately off-the-shelf stuff. My main course was an entrecôte that was significantly past the medium-rare I had ordered. It’s actually amazing how few restaurants get this right. The profiteroles for dessert were good.

The wine list at Tante Agaath was short but decent. We went with a fresh Viognier that was quickly finished. Tap water was served chilled and without having to ask for it.

restaurant heerlijk outsideHeerlijk was downright disappointing. We had made our reservation for 20:00, showed up on time, were seated promptly and still did not have starters before 21:30 – an hour and a half later. The menu was terribly boring – we settled for shrimp cocktail and salad with smoked duck for starters; dorado and lamb fillets – served with the same potatoes and veggies – where the third option was also rather standard lemon chicken; and cheesecake for dessert.

While scoring low on imagination, Heerlijk does get credit for execution. The duck cooked just right, still pink. The dorado was flavorful. And the lamb was tender. The wine list was so limited, I settled for the house wine, an OK Valpolicella. Expensive bottled water is served only – no tap. The espresso afterwards was not hot enough and tasted slightly stale – and to top it all I had to get sugar myself from a neighboring table.

We definitely won’t be back to Heerlijk. We might go back to Tante Agaath if we happen to be in the area. And while I had marked restaurant week in my agenda the last two times, I will probably skip the next one!